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<<I | <<II | <<III | <<IV | <<V | <<VI | <<VII | <<VIII | ZX9R Valve Adjustment - IX | X |
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| Take your time when replacing the cam(s). In addition to lining up the IN and EX marks with the upper edge of the headcover gasket surface (see next photo below), you want to put a few drops of clean motoroil on your tender cam lobes and journal surfaces before replacing the cam cap. |  |
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| ...annnd the exhaust mark is lined up nicely with the headcover gasket mating surface. This is the primary reason I prefer to remove the headcover gasket. That gasket is a little thick and if your cam sprocket it off by only one tooth, it can destroy your engine. |  |
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Replace the cam cap evenly and tighten each of the (20) 10mm bolts using the tightening sequence given below. [tightening sequence to come soon] |
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[tightening sequence will go here] | |||
| Following the same removal procedure to protect our journal surfaces, stagger your tightening evenly so that the cam cap snugs down flatly, (rather than tightening all of one side and leaving the other side completely loose.) |  |
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| Reinstall the preset (5-notches out) camchain tensioner and tighten the (2) 8-mm bolts uniformly. The torque given here is XXXNewton-meters (XXXfoot-lbs), but I'd like to see the torque wrench that will fit in here! Just tighten these fairly tight with your normal 8mm wrench. |  |
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| Reinsert the plunger, spring, washer and cap-bolt assembly. The torque for the cap-bolt is XXX-Nm, (XXXft-lbs), but again, my torque wrench won't fit in there. |  |
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A standard open-end wrench will have to do the job, unless you have a few more hours to drop the engine out of the frame.) The Z10 (which uses our ZX9R engine has got it all over us on this particular aspect, because the CCT is poking out and exposed to any wandering torque wrenches. |
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