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Assuming some of your valves need adjusting, you'll now have to remove the camshafts to access the shims under the cam followers. Start by removing the cam chain tensioner at the back-right of the engine. (Left-loosey.) |
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| This complete assembly (plunger, spring, cap bolt and washer) should come out of the center of the camchain tensioner. This washer is the exact same part number as the oil drainplug crush-washer, so if yours looks a little squished or damaged, it's easily replaced. |  |
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| Now loosen the (2) 8mm bolts that hold the main body of the camchain tensioner in place. (Sorry the photo came out a little blurry)... |  |
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| ...and remove the CCT with a gentle, rocking. twisting motion. It's supposed to fit pretty tightly, so just be gentle and patient. |  |
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| Before setting the CCT aside, you might as well re-set it right now. The manual specifies to set the plunger at 5 exposed notches. Just push the little spring-activated lever at the top and push the pluger back inside a few notches to affect this. |
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Note: One time this little spring got sideways in its housing on my ex-wife's ZX6R. It made a terrible racket when I fired it up and I lost an entire weekend trying to find the problem, (Though I was mighty glad it turned out to be this and not a couple of bent valves or dented pistons!) | ||
| Now uniformly loosen the (20) 10mm cam-cap bolts. "Uniformly"? Loosen each bolt about a turn until you can unscrew them completely with your fingers. It's 20 bolts, which requires a little patience, but you want to avoid the cam-cap popping up at an odd angle and possible scuffing your crucial cam journal surfaces. |  |
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| I prefer the socket wrenches that have a serrated thumbwheel for this operation, but I have a hard time finding good quality wrenches with this feature. Email me if you know of a good one. |  |
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