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At this point, you're going to be handling engine internals which have a good deal of used motoroil on them. You can get these latex gloves at any pharmacy or medical supply store. An entire box of them are pretty cheap and will hopefully keep that highly carcinogenic used motoroil off your skin.
Remove the coil cover, exposing the rotor bolt. There are two small wire-guides held in place by the top two bolts.
Loosen the top (6) 10mm bolts securing the headcover...
...clean the surface of each (being careful not to wipe any of the dust or grit into the holes...
...and gently lift the headcover off. I always love this part for some reason.
Because the frame is wrapped pretty snuggly around that engine, you may have to do a little maneuvering to get this out. Removing the radiator and fan assembly make it a little easier. Take your time to avoid scratching that cover.
Turn the 17mm rotorbolt clockwise until the dashed line under "4" is aligned precisely with the seam between the upper and lower crankcase halves...
...here's a closeup of what it should look like...
...and the marks on the cam sprockets should also align with the upper edge of the cylinder headcover gasket surface. This is the intake ("IN") cam, and the exhaust ("EX") mark should align at the front of the engine.
You can simply leave the cylinder head gasket cover in place, but I like to remove mine and feel extra confident when resetting my cam timing that my "IN" and "EX" marks are aligned perfectly with the top edge. This is the 6th valve adjustment I've done on this bike and my gasket is still in good shape, and I think they're less than $20 to replace.
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