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| Same deal as the carburetor throats. Stuff a clean, lint-free rag or paper-towel in each of the intake tracts to prevent dust, crud or hardware from falling in there. |  |
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You can do this at any point, but I figured now was a good time to jump to cleaning the airbox and filter element. After cleaning the filter either with some commercially available filter-element cleaner (or a mild detergent like dish-washing liquid), set it out to dry. Once it's dry, and you've inspected it for any filth, tears or problems, pour or spray the filter element oil all over the foam element. Try to spread it around as much as possible while pouring. |
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| As you're squeezing the filter element to spread the oil over as evenly as possible, allow the surplus drippings to fall into your already cleaned airbox. By doing this and spreading that oil evenly over the surface, you'll be exploiting the sticky surface area on the inside of your airbox to trap and filter dust, dirt and insects coming in from the ram air. |  |
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| Wipe the fresh sticky oil all over the inside of your airbox. |  |
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| Back to the valves! Before you can remove the plastic baffle plate, the caps on the fresh-air reed inlets must be removed (the left one is already removed in this photo.) |  |
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| And disconnect the spark-plug wires from the stick-coils, (the left two are already removed in this photo.) |  |
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| And because it passes over the baffle plate, remove the connector hose that passes from the radiator to the coolant reservoir on the left of the bike. |  |
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| For some reason, this hose kept getting bulges, bubbles and leaks, so I've wrapped mine in one of the old hoses and with electrician's tape to insulate it from whatever was melting it before. Your's may simply look like a rubber hose. Check it for bubbles, soft spots and leakage. You may have the same problem I did. |  |
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| You can probably get away with not disconnecting the radiator mounts, but it's a good idea to get that dirty old radiator away from your exposed valvetrain internals AND this will also give you more room to maneuver with the feeler gauge when checking the exhaust clearances. |  |
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| There are a total of three of these 10mm bolts: two on the left side of the engine... |  |
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| ...and one on the right side of the engine. |  |
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| I like to use a shop-vaccuum to clear away any possible dirt or dust before removing the stick-coils (or spark plug caps.) Once grit or dirt specs fall down in there, they're a serious PITA to clean out. |  |
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