Step 6:  Slap Everything Else Back On

These are much easier to reinstall than remove.  Slather a little grease on the O-rings.  If you ever see any burnt oil in your spark plug sockets, it means that these little O-rings need to be replaced  (Kawasaki Part Number 92055-1592).

Put a little high-temp medium threadlock on these little screws and torque them to 3.9Nm.  If you can't squeeze your torque wrench the the bolts on the inside, get a feel for how tight the outside bolt is torqued, then duplicate that as best you can with the little allen key in the toolkit.  The aluminum is soft, so don't get overly-zealous.

Push the spark plug caps back in.  You should hear a slight ticking-ratchet sound and the caps should lock down into place.

Hook the fuel tank vent and overflow hoses back up.  They are color-coded red and blue with tape on the hoses and dots on the tank, so it's nearly impossible to get it wrong if you're still sober.
You can also slather on a little dab of vaseline with a Q-tip, which will make removal easier the next time you have to remove the tank.

Reinsert the fuel hose and vaccuum hose to the petcock.  The vaseline trick works here too.  Just remember to reinsert the hose clamps (the vaccuum hose on top already has it's hoseclamp installed, then check for any fuel leaks after your first ride.

There is no torque value given for these bolts that secure the tank in place, but they're really easy to strip, so use ass-lube and take it easy!

If you want to go the extra mile for your baby, (we're all nodding vigorously right now,) start your bike up, ride for 10-15 miles and return to change the oil.  No matter how careful you were to keep everything clean, some dust most likely got in there.  By heating and circulating and replacing the oil, you'll be removing some of the crud that found it's way into your precious engine while it was open. Peace!