Valve Clearance Adjustment on a W650:
 "I wanna see at least .14mm of daylight between you and your dance-partner, bucko."

W650 Valve Adjustment - I | II | III | IV | V | VI

 

 

Step One:  Remove Some Stuff

You could pay a dealership $120-200 to check or adjust your valve clearances, but riding this elegantly-designed machine is barely half the fun of owning it!  A paid mechanic may clean everything as he goes, but he's certainly not going to put the love and Q-tips into it that you would. 

Remove the Seat and Fuel Tank
Pulling the fuel tank off is like undressing your favorite lady (or guy) friend:  daunting before and thrilling the first time; and it's nearly as simple!  Just loosen two bolts and pull off four hoses (or five if you still have the charcoal canister hose).  


Because these two bolts thread directly into a non-removable portion in the frame, Kawasaki made the bolts of soft metal to protect those threads in the frame.  Translated:  they're easily stripped, so take your time.

Shopping List:

~standard-issue W650 toolkit
~torque-wrench 
(30-$70)
~basic metric socket set 
(20-$50)
~metric feeler gauge 
(5-$12)
~Three-bond 1211 gasket sealer 
   (or the identical Kawabond stuff)
~3 clean rags
~many Q-tips
~KHI W650 Service Manual 

Wish List:
(not necessary, but these things will certainly make the job more pleasant)

~Honda or Plexus Spray cleaner/polish
~a second metric feeler gauge  made by a different manufacturer
~a .01 - .25mm micrometer
~that one day America will again be the Good Guy (Hey, it's a wish list.)
~needle-nose pliers
~
Dick Cheney gets a virile and muscular cellmate
~a big-ol flathead screwdriver
~assembly lube (aka "ass-lube", which will hopefully land on Cheney's list someday too .)
~3 more clean rags
~a U.S. President with a 3-digit IQ
~many more q-tips

Because the W650 has a diaphragm-operated petcock (heh heh--get your mind out of the gutter), you don't have to drain the tank beforehand or worry about spillage!  
It's still a good idea to run your tank down to empty before removing it, both to make it easier to handle the tank, and on the off-chance your diaphragm-petcock is not working properly.  Strangely a massive fuel dump becomes more likely if your landlord or an EPA-agent are standing in front of your garage
If the hoses are sticky coming off, use a light twisting motion to break them free of the nozzles.  To make it easier the next time, use a Q-tip to dab a tiny amount of vaseline inside the hose, which will make for a better seal and keep your hoses supple longer.

Left side:

The hoses slide off easily and smoothly for me because I smeared a little vaseline on the inside of the hoses with a Q-tip before reinstalling them last time.

The hoses all have small, wire hose-clips, but these are easily removed with the pliers in the toolkit or even your bare fingers. Now just grab the tank by the knee-pads (one of the few advantages of the '00 model) and pull the tank back toward the battery, and voila!  ( Ahem...Scroll down, please.)

Right side:

    The little golden bolt is the plug of the line that used to lead to the
      ugly charcoal canister.


Once you've removed the gas tank, you can see that beautiful engine in all her naked splendor.
It's a pity Kawasaki had to cover this up, but at least the fuel tank is pretty nice-looking too.

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