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The Hazard of New Functions:
A Near-Life Experience on the Way to Catalina

 

As long as you don't do anything stupid, ocean kayaking can be a pretty boring pasttime compared to some (like mountain biking.) For hours you stroke a paddle smoothly to pull yourself and your coffin-sized craft over the water, like some Tupperware-Ishmael. It's not unlike driving on the smooth Interstate 80 across the Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah--your speedometer says 70 miles per hour and your engine is making noise, but all your senses tell you the car is not moving. On a kayak, instead of doing 70, you're travelling at a walking pace and instead of the comparitively confined spaces of the Bonneville Salt Flats, you're on the slightly larger salt-flats of the Pacific Ocean.

As a paddler, you're far away from the noise, crowds and the...dirt of the shore. And if you paddle out far enough to lose sight of the shore, it seems as though you're a little spec of space dust lost in an endless two-dimensional universe. You hear nothing but the sound of water lapping against your boat: no birds, no waves; silence that makes your ears ring. I've often gone kayaking to escape humanity and then caught myself paddling like mad to catch another kayaker out past the surf zone.

A Catalina crossing was in the works before I bought my kayak, and so was glad to be finally taking off, at about 5:45 a.m on this very foggy August morning in 2000, almost a year after buying this Ocean Kayak Cabo. Cabrillo State Park is the closest point on the continent to Catalina Island, so it seemed a logical launch-point. Trouble is, Cabrillo Park is the upper lip of the mouth of Long Beach Harbor is one of the busiest freight thoroughfares in the world, with many enormous freighters suddenly appearing in the fog, then disappearing just as suddenly. In reality, they were probably only tearing past at 25-30 knots, but the fastest I could manage was maybe six.

If you're considering making this crossing, please bring a battery-operated light to make your boat more visible in the fog. Crossing a major shipping lane in the fog is roughly as foolish as running across a busy freeway in the fog. One freighter blasted me and a small sailboat with his horn and those suckers are loud!

I soon lost sight of land and didn't see it again for 3 hours; just paddling-paddling-paddling and watching my Army surplus compass. Nothing visible in all directions, my life rested on that little magnetic needle bobbing around willy-nilly in its case. I was temporarily overjoyed when land very suddenly came into view, but soon learned why. The strong wind that blew the fog away turned out to be a shotglass of blessing and a pitcher of curse. I aimed at the low point between the mountains on the island, but it would be another four and a half hours of paddling, because the wind and the chop were vicious. A few large powerboats passed by, but no sailboats at all. The wind and chop kept pulling the boat off-course to the left. Lacking a rudder, I had to pull very hard with my left hand and lightly with the right the whole time. I had tendonitis in my left forearm for 3 weeks after this adventure.

A white rock or islet became visible and it seemed a reasonable landmark. It turned out to be Bird Rock and I got pretty excited when I finally saw sailboats anchored behind it. Despite the seeming nearness, it was another two hours of solid paddling to keep on course and moving. I stopped for a 2-minute water break and the boat was turned completely around and I hated to think about how much ground I'd lost while massaging my sore arm. As the chop worsened, my paddling form involuntarily deteriorated too. I put on the walkman so I wouldn't have to hear the howling wind or my own frustrated cries. [Stupid 80's music tape!]: Belinda Carlisle singing Heaven on Earth, with the lyrics: "When I'm lost at sea, I look for you and you carry me..."; and Falco's Der Komissar: "...the more you live the faster you will diiiieeee." (Ugh.)

 

The chop and swell grew worser still and at one point I was toppled by a 6-foot whitecap that broke at the perfectly wrong moment. The boat flipped and I was instantly floating serenely under the water, looking at my compass and my walkman hanging happily in front of a beautiful, inviting green void. It was so quiet and I heard, "You could die here..." and after more than seven hours of paddling so hard, the word die had a softer meaning then: more like rest or take-a-break.

There is a moment in the opening scene of Saving Private Ryan, in which we are placed in the perspective of a soldier struggling in the surf of the beach; while the camera is above the water, we hear machine guns, terrifically-fast violence, men crying out. Below the water, everything relaxes to a peaceful silence and even the bullets slow down and leave charming little bubble trails. It was just me and that large green restful void. Ahhh…

I scrambled back up into the howling wind and started paddling with renewed vigor. The walkman was still working and the soaking had rinsed some of the salt crust off my arms and refreshed me. The closer I got to the isthmus, the stronger the wind pressed against me. I was so relieved when I finally made it to the shelter of Bird Rock, that I didn't mind the stink from the bird droppings, which is what Bird Rock is apparently composed of. I rested for about 10 minutes then went back out into the furious howl. All eyes were on me when my prow finally hit the sand of the beach, so I restrained myself from kissing the ground, though I could have gargled the sand I was now walking on. A lifeguard stopped me as I was drunkenly pulling the Cabo up on shore:

"Are you in the gray kayak?"
"Yeah."
"Did you paddle from the mainland?"
"[Uh-oh, I'm probably going to get a ticket or something] ...Yeah."

"You picked a bad day to do this--35-40 knot winds and a small-craft advisory was issued hours ago. One of the powerboats that came in earlier reported you as a vessel in distress. The Coast Guard was just about to come looking for you."
"Oooh...sorry."

I was ready to collapse from exhaustion and relief, but still had to secure a campsite and get the tent up. There was a steel-drum band playing and the place was jam-packed with Parrotheads of the Seal Beach yacht club. They were dancing, drinking and there were volleyball, tug-o-war and horseshoes matches between power-boaters and sailors, both groups intent on outcheating the other.

Once my tent was up, I paddled (ugh) back to town and ordered a maitai and a tri-tip sandwhich. Both tasted better than anything in memory and the delicious maitai made me giddily gigglish. The Two Harbors Market was sold out of disposable cameras, so the only photographic evidence I have of this trip is the below postcard I mailed to my ex-girlfriend.

Because I was so paranoid about keeping the boat light for the crossing, I froze my butt off in a thin, felt sleeping bag (the kind kids use when they play camping and pitch the tent in the livingroom.)  The wind howled that night and despite being exhausted, I didn't sleep well.

At least that made it easier to wake up and set out early.  It was pitch black and there was one little fishing boat powering out from the harbor.  I grabbed a little white rock as a souvenir and paddled straight back in five hours and 15 minutes.  I was pretty proud of that until learning that some of the elite long-distance swimmers can make the crossing about that fast.

-Calamarichris